Day 4 – 4/7/16 –

And the rocket's red flare


Today is the USA’s Independence Day. It is also 27 years to the day that Darrin and I met so we always celebrate it is an anniversary. 27 years? Darrin would say that you would get less for murder!
We awaken to a wet morning. It has been showering all night and the roads and sidewalks are glistening. Drinks are brewed and we open our cards and gifts to each other. I have got Darrin a travel case for his watches and some dark 70% chocolate sticks (he’s rationed to one a day.) In turn I receive a beautifully embroidered cowboy shirt.
Yes, I’m into all that western stuff. I’ll be wearing it later in the trip.



Time to get washed and dressed. One thing I haven’t commented on is the cold water in the hotel. It’s not cold – its freezing! When I ask about it I’m told it is because the water comes from the surrounding mountains (obviously treated) and that accounts for its coldness.

The hotel lobby:





In this hotel the breakfast room is known as the Whistling Grizzly. Its walls are adorned by the most stunning photography of bears, elk and bison.



Having had a dozen eggs or so over the last few days, decided to have a change – granola and yoghurt for Darrin and Buttermilk Pancakes with syrup for me . When they arrive the two pancakes resemble the two halves of a Victoria sponge. Jam and cream are all that is missing. They are deliciously light.

By the time breakfast is finished and we have sorted ourselves for the day, the sky has brightened and the sun is starting to warm things up. The forecast if possible thunder for tonight – we will see. We later discover via the weather channel that many States to the east will have hailstones and rough storms!

Today is going to be “mountain heavy” so you are warned in advance. WE are visiting the Grand Teton (pronounced TEEton) National Park. It is in the northwest of the U.S state of Wyoming. It encompasses the Teton mountain range, the 13000 Grand Teton peak, and the valley known as Jackson Hole. It’s a popular destination for mountaineering, hiking, backcountry camping and fishing, linked to nearby Yellowstone National Park by the John D. Rockefeller, Jr. Memorial Parkway.

It takes us a little while to get out of town because there is a diversion on. At 10:30a.m. they will be holding the 4th July parade so we have to drive a little out of our way to get around it all. Soon we are passing the National Elk reserve.



Today there are no elks to be seen but this vast expanse was established in 1912 after the photography of Stephen Leek inspired public interest in preserving a part of the traditional winter range of the area elk population.

Today thousands of elk winter in the refuge, which is located just north of the town of Jackson. The elk begin their migration out of the high meadows in the fall, usually after the first snow storm. They stay in the refuge through the spring, when food becomes more abundant.

The sun is now beating down on a lovely morning. We pull over opposite Jackson’s airport. This is where the very expensive flights from Denver come in. Over the trees we get our first view of the Teton range and it is magnificent. I have only ever seen this view on a US postage stamp before now. The real thing is nature in her majesty.



Geography lesson: Between six and nine million years ago, stretching and thinning of the Earth's crust caused movement along the Teton fault. The west block along the fault line rose to form the Teton Range, creating the youngest range of the Rocky Mountains. The fault's east block fell to form the valley called Jackson Hole. The geological processes that led to the current composition of the oldest rocks in the Teton range began about 2.5 billion years ago. At that time, sand and volcanic debris settled into an ancient ocean. Additional sediment was deposited for millions of years and eventually heat and pressure metamorphosed the sediment into gneiss. Subsequently, magma was forced up through the cracks in the gneiss to form granite, anywhere from inches to hundreds of feet thick.




The peaks look like those that a child would draw – sharp and pointy! The Tetons have been the setting for a number of films, including John Wayne's movie acting debut in The Big Trail in 1930 and the western film classic, Shane in 1953. Mount Moran and the surrounding mountains were used as a backdrop for the lake/swamp setting in the original series of Land of the Lost (1974 TV series).
The highest peak is Mount Owen at 12,927 feet! It is named for the first man to climb it in 1898.

We spend several minutes getting photos. A couple pull up in a car and we exchange “Happy 4th” greetings. A United airplane comes into land at the airport.



We carry on to Moose Junction. This is where the loop road begins and is also the location of the National Parks Services information centre. It is built with a panoramic window so you can see the stretch of the Teton mountains.




There is a lovely bear and cub sculpture in the hall.



We queue for Mr. Ranger, Sir! So we can get the admission ticket for both the Teton and Yellowstone parks. It’s $50 for 7 days. Well worth it if it helps maintain this amazing terrain. It turns out they only sell annual passes here. The ticket we want is sold at the park entrance!
So – ticket purchased we set off along the road towards Jenny Lake. When we get there you could forgive us for thinking we are at Walt Disney World. There is construction going on everywhere. The car park is full and so we have to leave the car on the roadside (us and a million others) and walk half a mile to the information, shop and boat dock areas. They are completely rebuilding the visitor centre and enlarging the car park areas. There are CAT diggers everywhere! We try to exclude the works from sight and concentrate on the lake we came to see. As it is 4th July it is bust as I mentioned re the cars. The boats that tour the lake are doing a roaring trade. The lake itself is the start of the Snake river which runs for 1,000 miles to the Pacific. I think you’ll agree the scenery is stunning.







We now carry on several miles through pine trees and pastures to Signal Mountain. This is located 3 miles south of Jackson Lake. It is famous for its walking trails but that is far too energetic for the likes of us! Further down the road you come to Snake River lookout. This panorama is beyond description. It dazzles the senses. There is a copy of a photo taken by Ansel Adams in the 1940s. He toured in a “Woody” with a camera on a tripod attached to the roof of the vehicle. This is his photo:



This is ours today:



Tree growth now breaks up the once unobstructed view of the Snake River that Ansel photographed over 70 years ago. No matter how time has changed the view it is still one of the iconic views of the Tetons.

We travel the full loop and arrive back at Moose Junction. This time we will turn off to the left towards Teton Village -the famous ski resort. The road which runs for 6 miles is rough track and pot holed and it takes half an hour to negotiate. It doesn’t help when traffic coming the other way is grossly exceeding the recommended speed limits!



We arrive at Teton Village and in front of us with its clock tower is the epicentre for getting up these mountains. Your ticket $42 for a day’s Tri Tram Pass which gives unlimited access to the Bridger Gondola (cable cars), the Aerial Tram which holds about 60 people and the chairlift.



They are in the process of building a fourth means of getting you up the mountain. I say $42 which sounds a lot but we have a $5 off per person coupon from the local newspaper and also I get Senior rate. So in the end we pay $76 including tax for the two of us.
We get the Gondola first which will take us vertically 2,784 feet to a height of around 9,000 feet above sea level.







At the top is a bar and restaurant and an amazing overlook of the valley where you can clearly see the Snake River travelling south. We can also see to the north and the Teton area which we travelled today.
We get a couple of Bud Lights from the bar, find a table and sit and enjoy the view.



I try to work out where the town of Jackson is but can’t spot it. I ask one of the guys operating the Gondolas. He directs my gaze to two hill sides which have a dip between them. Through the dip is Jackson.



We spend a good half hour up here. My breathing is a little laboured – It’s at this point I should let you know, dear reader that I have been fighting the most awful cold since our first morning here. I awoke with a sore throat and it just got steadily worse over the first 3 days. Full blown cold but I was determined not to let it get the better of me. Those of you who know our trips will also know that it is not complete until we have visited a Walgreens branch (for UK readers that’s a pharmacy plus groceries). Not to be outdone a pilgrimage was undertaken to obtain cough sweets, Sudafed, Robitusssin and menthol inhalers. (This cold will continue for another 6 days and Darrin has also picked it up and is about 4 days behind me. Without going into gory detail my chest and nose are doing what they do when cold viruses strike!) I need to buy shares in a tissue company. Allowing for the incubation period I know this wasn’t caught via the plane. Thus you see why I struggle to breathe.

Let’s get back to the vacation.

OK, so having a day pass for these cable rides, we now go to the Tram (strange name for a cabled vehicle). This one holds some 60 people in one go. It will take 12 minutes to climb to a summit 10,400 feet above sea level. As the doors close the operator advises everyone to “keep arms , legs, heads, ears and selfie sticks inside the vehicle at all times”.





As we climb he dispenses facts about the system and the view below. Now why didn’t we think to bring coats with us? When we reach the top the wind is howling, You can climb a dozen or so steps and you are at the true summit.








It’s the only mountain climbing we will ever do in our lifetimes! Last winter’s snow lies on the ground here and there melting in the sun. The temperature difference between base camp and here is some 20 degrees F. It’s perishing. But, oh! The view. You can see the peaks of the Tetons to the north and below Jackson valley stretches to the south. We get a couple of summit photos putting on our best Edmund Hilary faces and then we dive into the shop and café that somebody has conveniently built here. Two hot chocolates later we have thawed out and are ready for the descent. The Tram runs regularly every 15 minutes. As we go down the other tram comes up – a kind of counterbalance. As it travels over the pylon wheels it tends to swing forwards producing screams and squeals from some of the crowd. I want to know how they get the cable up a mountain in the first place. They surely can’t drag it up with them over their shoulders as they climb? I’ll look it up on Google.

(I did and I found this: bing/videos/search?q...14&FORM=V IRE)




Once back in Teton Village we glance around one or two shops. Everything is just ridiculously priced – which is what you would expect from a ski resort – even in summer.

We make our way back to Jackson and arrive at the Wyoming Inn around 5:30P.M. We are both gasping for a cup of tea and so two mugs are brewed. Being the 4th today we have booked a restaurant in advance for 8:15p.m. Later in the evening we will see dozens being turned away from eateries because they are at full capacity. Even McDonalds had massive lines! We are at the “Local” in Town Square. So Darrin can have a drink or two we get a taxi for the 1.2 miles to the town centre.





We have some time to kill and glance around a shop or two before going over to the restaurant. We check in and within ten minutes we are seated.



Our server is Erin who is quite chatty and wants to know about “England” (I must admit this does tend to irritate me a little. It’s like Wales, Scotland and Ireland don’t exist in US geography books.) I grin and bear it. They always have a relative who lives in Northampton and do we know them? Bless!
That aside we order our meal.

We start with a Wyoming Whisky on the rock for me – I say rock because it was one massive square ice cube. If you are a whisky lover try the Wyoming – it is smokey but so smooth. Darrin has a Long Island tea.

Darrin decides he’ll have two appetizers: Snow King crab claws with a seafood sauce and clarified butter with a house salad on the side.




I choose a pork chop with grilled peaches accompanied with an Idaho sliced potato and cheese dish. What size beast this chop came off I fear to imagine. It was delicious and the peaches really go well with pork.



I skip dessert but Darrin has a cinnamon crème brulee. Wine is a Cakebread Cellars Chardonnay.

We get chatting to the couple at the next table – Drew and Sarah. I can’t remember exactly where they were from. (Santa Barbara?) Sarah is a big Disney fan and when I tell her about the DIBBcast (podcast)she wants details. I tell her to listen in on 1st August as I’ll give them a shout out.

It’s 9:50p.m. and we have to get in position for the fireworks. Most folk go to the park at the foot of Snow Mountain (known locally as Town Hill). By day you can see where the ski run is. We are a few blocks back on Cache Street but still have an amazing view. There is no music that we are aware of. A lot of the pyrotechnics are the low level variety like they use at Disneyland Paris but the finale ones sure go the height of the mountain. A feature is that when they bang you get an echo reflected back by the mountain slope.








As the show ends you can hear people cheering from the park. We decided we would walk back to our hotel. It’s only just over a mile and the temperature is still 68F at 10:30 at night. Thank heaven we choose to do it this way. The line of traffic leaving town must be two miles long! At every traffic junction the lights have been turned to a warning flash and a cop stands in the middle with one of those illuminated sticks directing the cars. They won’t be home until well past midnight.
It takes us twenty minutes and we see odd domestic displays of fireworks along the way. We are in bed by 11p.m. and merrily snore the night way until morning.

Happy 4 th!



INDEX: http://DIBB.in/11766690

You certainly find great places to eat and sleep...great trippie so far.
Happy anniversary.

Thanks for sharing.

Wow what a day. Fantastic scenery! Great way to to spend an anniversary.

Wow! is the only word that springs to mind when looking at your pictures. What must have you both been thinking when they came into view.

With regards to the cold, more whiskey might help!

Can't wait for more reports and pictures. Really got me thinking about future trips.

Another fab day! Those views from the top of the mountain!

What a great day Geoff, fabulous way to spend your anniversary, congratulations by the way! More amazing looking foods as well and the views are stunning. Pussycat

Stunning photos today Geoff, the cable car rides look fabulous, like something from a film... lovely sculpture of the Bears too. Hope you made lots of great memories on your 27th anniversary.

Loving your report , brilliant as usual 😊
Is this the same Jackson Johnny Cash sings about ?
Happy anniversary

Happy Anniversary

Sorry to hear you have colds, hopefully the mountain air will get rid of them for you.

Lovely mountain photos

Glad you enjoy the 4th July celebrations

Lesley and Melvin

Geoff. You have excelled on this days trip report. So much detail and interesting facts. Those photos are amazing as are the views.
You can tell that you were chilled to the bone by the way you are hunched up!
Just as well you planned so well else you would have gone hungry with no table available! Nice food again, I see Darrin is back on the fish!
What a day and experiences with which to spend your Anniversary and their celebrations. Excellent